Saving Energy at Home

Inspect the Home

Assume that the home is being sold “as is.” Get it inspected by a professional who is a member of ASHI or InterNACHI. It can be a good idea to request previous utility bills to estimate heating and cooling costs in the home, as high bills could indicate that energy improvements need to be made.

Before buying a home, there are four areas you should inspect, with the highest opportunity for energy savings in Minnesota’s climate:

1. Attic Insulation: Air leaks allow air from inside a house to enter the attic, potentially causing comfort issues, ice dams, and moisture issues. Sealing these leaks and adding insulation will improve a home’s durability and save energy.
2. Heating System: Forced air furnaces typically have a 20 year life, and boilers should be replaced after 25 years. 
3. Wall Insulation: Walls with little insulation are cold and drafty. Dense packing walls with insulation reduces home drafts and improves home comfort. This will also reduce energy waste and save money. 
4. Windows: Windows should be double-pane, or single-pane with storm windows. Storm windows can be installed on the exterior of single-pane windows to cost effectively reduce energy usage, reduce drafts, and improve comfort.

Ask to see recent utility bills so you know how much they might cost.

What utilities does the house or apartment have?
If there is more than one unit in the building, are there individual energy meters for each unit or is there one shared meter? Electric, natural gas, delivered fuels (propane or fuel oil), other?

Who pays the utilities: renter or landlord?

Talk with your landlord about energy:

• Ask if there’s been an energy assessment or audit recently.
• Ask for help installing a programmable thermostat.
• Find out whose responsibility it is to change the furnace filter monthly and get the furnace serviced regularly.
• If appliances are old or need replacement, request ENERGY STAR appliances that qualify for utility rebates.
• Ask for help installing water-efficient faucet aerators and showerheads to reduce water heating costs.
• Find out how to turn down the water heater to 120°F to reduce energy use and prevent burns.

Contact your landlord.

MN law requires that landlords maintain rental properties so that they are “fit to live in” and “kept in reasonable repair.”

If your landlord pays your utilities:
Contact your landlord to alert them that utilities need to be paid. LawHelpMN.org offers additional suggestions.

If you pay your own utilities:
Minnesota’s Cold Weather Rule (CWR) is a state law that protects you from having your electric or natural gas service shut off between October 1 and April 30. If you are behind in paying your electric or natural gas bill, contact your utility company to find out if you qualify for CWR protection, and to sign up.

The Data Plate is a sheet of paper located in a kitchen cabinet, an electrical panel, or a bedroom closet. It should never be removed! If it is missing, you may not be able to find out whether the home was designed for Minnesota’s cold climate. A missing data plate may also mean that the home was manufactured prior to 1976, when efficiency standards were implemented for manufactured homes. There are several pieces of information on the data plate that are particularly important: 

1. When was the home manufactured?
2. Some homes were designed only for temporary housing. Make sure the data plate does not include a warning against long-term habitation. 
3. What is the factory-installed equipment? If the current equipment is different, then you know it has been replaced at some point since the home was manufactured. Check the nameplates on the heating systems (furnace/boiler and hot water) to make sure they are rated for manufactured homes.
4. What thermal zone was this home designed for? If you live in Minnesota, it is essential that the home be designed for thermal zone 3 (U value of 0.079 BTU/hr·ft2·oF). 
5. What snow load is was this home designed for? If you live in Minnesota, it is essential that the home be designed for at least 30 lb/ft2. 

Assume that the manufactured home is being sold “as is.” Get it inspected by a professional who is a member of ASHI or InterNACHI. A few things to look for:

1. Moisture barrier and insulation should be intact on the underbelly.
2. Gaps (such as for plumbing entrances) should be sealed against air leaks.
3. Furnace and water heater must be rated for manufactured homes (this should be marked on the nameplates of the furnace and water heater).
4. There should be no damage in the area of the furnace, water heater, or bathroom.
5. Watch for sagging, dark spots, peeling ceiling panels, or warping of the floor, which are often signs of roof leaks or other damage.

• Leaky heat ducts under the floor are a common problem that you can inspect and seal on your own.
• Seal your home from cold winter drafts with plastic film on windows and draft snakes, sweeps, and weatherstripping for doors. Use spray foam for other gaps, such as around plumbing and electrical entrances. Close storm windows on doors and windows, too.
• Make sure that the crawlspace under the floor (underbelly) is well insulated.
• If you need to replace your furnace or air conditioner, install high efficiency EnergyStar units.
• Heat with your furnace, not portable space heaters which can be the biggest use of electricity in the winter and are also fire hazards.
• More energy efficiency tips for manufactured homes.

Manufactured Home Parks Handbook

Under "Housing & Utilities," and also under "Spanish"

This publication from the Minnesota Attorney General gives an overview of rights and responsibilities for residents of manufactured homes and owners of manufactured home parks.